Reverse engineering makes it possible for heavily researched and developed fragrances to be imitated with minimal effort and quality. Since exact chemical compositions cannot be copyrighted, these companies are not engaging in illegal behavior. Companies with basic analytical chemical equipment such as gas chromatographs can analyze scents and attempt to replicate popular fragrances. The ability to determine the components of a fragrance comes with pitfalls. The close eye with which these groups watch perfumers is also kept on cosmetics and health product manufacturers, meaning more people are able to discover what exactly they are applying on their bodies every day. Had it not been for the scientific analysis of fragrances, these health risks would have gone undetected. The study found that the International Fragrance Association has appraised 22 of 91 ingredients found in fragrances, not nearly enough to fully understand the consequences these perfumes may have on the human body.
Chemicals are either inhaled or absorbed through the skin when applied, with effects such as allergic reactions, hormone disruption, or even birth defects. A report by The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics and Environmental Working Group in 2010 revealed that fragrances on average contain 14 chemicals that are not listed on the label, many of which can cause serious health problems. In reality, IFRA’s regulations may not be stringent enough.
British perfumer Roja Dove compared the substitution of key perfume ingredients to “trying to make a chicken dish if you can no longer use chicken.” Fragrance writer Denyse Beaulieu describes new, regulation-following scents as “skinny and fleshless”. However, some wonder at the cost of what was considered an art form. This automation of perfume creation is undeniably efficient and exact.